We’ve got the power

From Saint Laurent’s silken suits of a new sexual liberation, to sharp space-age shoulders at Louis Vuitton and non-binary gender muses at Givenchy, on spring runways, as in daily life, there is an unprecedented number of strong characters to look up to as we stride into 2020.

Symbolically speaking, many major fashion moments have been in step with the fight for women’s rights. On the evening in September 2018 when Saint Laurent’s Anthony Vaccarello debuted his boy-meets-girl splendour in front of the Eiffel Tower, a French law was passed making it possible, for the first time, for a man to be charged for harassing a woman on the streets of Paris. That same night, in the US, Bill Cosby was sentenced for sexual assault.

From storming the steps of parliament to taking a stand in court, powerful women are creating change the world over, but what should we wear to get on with it? Sure, women should dress however they damn well please – but with so much choice, and more than a bit of political chaos in the air, the pressure is on. How can we put our best foot forward, in the office and beyond?

Dressing for change is nothing new for New Zealand women, who were the first in the world to win the right to vote more than 125 years ago. Then, campaigners wore the proper attire of the late 1800s, tightly fitted bodices and high necklines, to challenge concerns activists were not feminine enough – a cringe-worthy complaint post-feminists still face. As if to make light of it all, lead suffragist Kate Sheppard was unabashedly fashionable, once posing for a portrait in a sweeping gown and feather boa.

‘Lead suffragist Kate Sheppard was unabashedly fashionable, once posing for a portrait in a sweeping gown and feather boa.’

When our predecessors went on to government positions, sleeves puffed up as ambitions did. Elizabeth Yates, the first female mayor in the British Empire, who was elected for Auckland’s Onehunga in 1893, was partial to a leg-of- mutton sleeve – a valiant Victorian silhouette found in Zimmermann and Beaufille’s current collections.

What about those who found strength in borrowing from the boys? Well before Wall Street women suited up in the 1980s pinnacle of power dressing, wartime women used rationing as an excuse to wear men’s pants, before making their own practical slacks. Julia Yates of Auckland’s Trilby Yates salon, took it further when debuting a full women’s trouser suit, “a la Dietrich”, on Queen Street in the early 1930s. She was spat at, but the style soon took off.

We’ve come a long way, and some, like Marc Jacobs, argue that our clothing choices are entirely individual. “Now, the idea of being powerful is being able to wear whatever you want, and the clothes not having any meaning in terms of where you stand and what you believe. It’s just your choice,” the designer recently told The New York Times. His spring collection of overblown outfits and giant rosettes was made for women to take up space.

But many women are still not free to present themselves as they please. States of Undress host Hailey Gates, whose show traces outfit standards around the globe, wrote for Teen Vogue last year: “If there’s anything I’ve learned while working in the field, it’s that women are not casual entities. We cannot move through cultures and dynamics with the same mercurial deftness men do... There are rules, especially for dress; some are mandated by the state, and others go unspoken.”

While some women are protesting a requirement to wear heels – most visibly celebrities on the red carpet in Cannes but also working women in Japan – others are left wondering what to wear when there are no written rules left. A recent study by employment site Seek, highlighting the decline in office dress codes, shows two in three New Zealanders do not wear a uniform, and women are twice as likely to say it’s hard to choose what to wear to work every day.

Maggie Eyre, author of Being You, is a presentation skills coach who worked closely with Helen Clark, introducing the former NZ prime minister and administrator of the United Nations Development Programme to designer Jane Daniels and hair salon Servilles. Together they found Helen a polished look to quash unfair commentary on her appearance and attract the right kind of attention. “First impressions matter and if your clothing is right people forget about it and focus on what you’ve got to say and how you communicate,” says Maggie.

“First impressions matter and if your clothing is right people forget about it and focus on what you’ve got to say and how you communicate.”

As a career woman, Maggie knows that to make a strong sartorial statement one must stay true to their style while understanding the rules of their organisation. You don’t have to spend a paycheck to look professional, but you should plan ahead – caring for your clothing and adding personal accessories if the rest of your outfit needs to be neat.

Taking it a step further, Helen’s protege Prime Minister Jacinda Ardern is showing the world new ways to dress like a leader. She can pose in a pink, frilled Maggie Marilyn blouse on the cover of Next magazine and still be taken seriously. If anything, her feminine choices point to a compassionate leadership style – this isn’t a battle and she doesn’t need a suit of armour.

“Femininity and power are political,” says local designer Ingrid Starnes, whose label Jacinda has worn to the UN and on CNN. “Unlike men, women’s clothing is often more alive and varied, different and colourful than the suits that have been so common. Choices about what you wear, who made it, the environmental and physical impact, the labour; all of these things matter. It’s a lovely kind of power dressing that remains kind, thoughtful and committed.”

To dress for success requires some soul-searching. For many, the meaning of success sways from flexible working hours to living sustainably. While Ingrid Starnes offers sharp suits and trousers, for her, a printed silk dress paired with sneakers or Doc Martens has the power to take you further during a busy day.

Juliette Hogan, another designer favoured by our prime minister, sees the strength in looks that bridge the gap between work and weekend, from jeans that can be worn with a blazer or at a BBQ to a safari suit for all occasions.

“I am always in awe of the transformative power of clothing,” says Juliette. “There is, of course, the impression that others create of you based on what you are wearing, but what I love about a great outfit is its ability to change how you feel inside. To me, this is what power dressing is about. Bringing a balance of comfort and confidence to take on the day ahead.” ■

For more: Power dressing through the ages - a visual history and how to channel our heroines today on FQ.co.nz.