Golden age

Times of dramatic change, call for dramatic dress. In the 1920s, as in the 2020s, the world was in a state of flux. Instead of fretting, Jazz Age women celebrated their newfound freedoms in loose-fitting dresses, with a higher hem for kicking up their heels in. Flappers, in particular, stayed out late dancing the Charleston in sleeveless shifts – golden threads twinkling through a smoky haze, strings of beads tapping and short bobs bopping to their new beat.

New Zealanders could hear the hedonism as it roared through newly introduced radios and gramophones. Cinemas, known affectionately as ‘picture palaces’, brought with them shining images of Hollywood style. Dowdy lace was out and slinky satin, channelling a young Joan Crawford and a sophisticated Louise Brooks, was in. Loose dresses with Art Deco-inspired patterns were championed by fashion’s original It Girl, It star Clara Bow, her pencil-thin eyebrows arching nonchalantly as she played an irresistible character working in a state-of-the-art department store.

A new wave of working women could afford to shop the latest fashion and cosmetic trends, including red nail polish. Miss New Zealand beauty contests begantheir reign – the winners all with the cheek-chiselling haircut of the original beauty influencer, actor Colleen Moore. Other screen stars debuted racier looks, from Gloria Swanson’s tasselled gold dresses to the cutout gowns in A Slave of Fashion. Showgirl (and later spy) Josephine Baker was only interested in accessories, wearing elaborate marabou and jewel headpieces, strings of pearls and often nothing else.

Mass culture entered the spotlight, with many moving into the city as quick as a clink of Champagne coupes. Swerving into the fast lane, New Zealand had one of the highest car-ownership rates in the world as the number of vehicles on the road more than doubled in the second half of the 1920s. Not content with staying on the ground, Jean Batten began flight training.

When it came to lingerie, Victorian ideals were challenged as much as Victoria’s Secret is today.

The term ‘ladies of leisure’ took on new meaning as women enjoyed sports and other adventures in clothes that allowed for greater freedom of movement, often with a boyish square neckline. Silk chemises replaced corsets and it was cool to be flat-chested for that garconne look. When it came to lingerie, Victorian ideals were challenged as much as Victoria’s Secret is today.

Such progress wasn’t all golden. A social divide was forming between those who embraced change and those who didn’t, while pay disparity spread. Sound familiar? We’re only at the beginning of 2020 but political and social tensions are already rife in the lead-up to the general elections in both New Zealand and the United States, and an increasing call to action on climate change bellows.

In times of great change, some will try to hold on to the past, while others will leap to the new. The Roaring Twenties trend offers the best of both worlds in fashion.

Glimmers of a 1920s revival are found on recent runways, with more sure to unravel throughout the decade. Such shaking up of sartorial references is nothing new – the original 1920s styles had an array of influences. The opening of Tutankhamun’s tomb in 1922 captured the imagination of aesthetes the most – its ancient relics and gold and black lines appearing in Art Deco get-ups. For the first 2020 collections, eye-catching marigold and tassels were discovered in Christian Siriano’s spring New York Fashion Week show, while Dior’s haute couture for spring/ summer materalised golden cutout fringe dresses as Maria Grazia Chiuri continued to contemplate, ‘Are clothes modern?’

Earlier at Australian Fashion Week, Michael Lo Sordo showed silken white trouser suits with a square neckline, and feathered party looks that would be the envy of Josephine and the flappers.

‘Parallels to the 1920s can be drawn from myriad muses.’

Accessories are an effortless way to ease into the trend. Prada’s turned-up bucket hats may seem modern to some, but really resemble last century’s well-loved cloches. Simone Rocha’s metallic headbands and earthy fringing, and Khaite’s pearl and diamond headwear make for a witty nod to the showgirl styling of old.

Parallels to the 1920s can be drawn from myriad muses. At Chanel’s artisanal Metiers d’Art show in December 2019, Virginie Viard paid homage to the house’s founder Coco by incorporating elements of her iconic 31 rue Cambon apartment, where the designer hosted 1920s tastemakers including Greta Garbo and Marlene Dietrich. Shimmering charmeuse evening wear and cascading wide-leg crepe pants were worn with layered pearl and bead necklaces. Posh yet pragmatic, the show channels the historic figurehead’s 1920s dress sense while the contemporary fashion brand undergoes a major change of leadership.

Closer to home, we’re seeing the trend glide on with slinky dresses and skirts by Paris Georgia, Kate Sylvester and Harris Tapper. We’ve learnt from the excess gone before and many local brands, including Florence & Fortitude and Maggie Marilyn, are sourcing deadstock satin and silk or recycled thread blends – encapsulating the optimistic boom-time mood within a modern sustainable mindset.

Whichever twist on a classic you choose, make sure it’s one you can twirl more than one night away in. Jazz up your look each time with loops of necklaces in varying lengths, a wink of gold accessories or strappy vintage (inspired or actual) footwear. It’s time to shine, again. ■